Barton G in South Beach
Friday, 07.13.2007, 05:52pm (GMT)
South Beach has many things: clubs, bars, snooty attitudes, beautiful
people, over-priced drinks. One of the things that is most immediately
noticeable about SoBe is also, ironically, one of the things that you
first cease to notice once you have spent an appreciable amount of time
there: the over-the-top, unbelievably garish, superficial glitz. This
comes in many forms, from the icy blonde models that frequent clubs and
hotspots to the ornate, often-extravagant décor of the clubs and
restaurants themselves - after you’ve been around it for a while, you
barely notice it.
That’s why it is sometimes fun to go to a place where presentation
is the specialty and wild culinary ideas are made real. Barton G (named
for an eccentric impresario with a reputation for over-the-top
theatrics) offers exceedingly original dishes that really have to be
seen to be believed (for example, try the “Freedom Chimp" for dessert –
it’s a chocolate monkey dressed as the statue of liberty, holding
sparklers. No kidding). Even fairly standard dishes are presented in
bizarre and interesting ways. For example, the seared scallops are
served in lollipop form, while you can get swordfish and vegetables
skewered on a foot-long dagger. The prices are a little steep, but
unlike many other places in SoBe, the portions are huge, and the
service is unfailingly excellent (though it does on occasion take a bit
of time to be seated).
For optimal dining pleasure, try to get a seat in the garden – it
really has to be seen to be described, and remember to go all out on
dessert. My favorite is the Baked Alaska, which is unrelentingly huge,
and can easily feed four diners.
The next time you want to remember what South Beach is known for, head
to Barton G – it’s a culinary experience that you won’t soon forget.
http://www.MilleniumLimo.com
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