The morning of March 18, 2006, day eight of my third journey to Israel and Palestine began with a tour of the Old City of Jerusalem.

A sacred hush filled the cypress canopied stone streets of The Noble Sanctuary that lead us to the Dome of The Rock, the site where Abraham offered to sacrifice his first born son Ishmael and where it is reported Mohammed ascended to heaven. We all remove our shoes and all the women cover their hair with scarves, then we silently tread the crimson carpet inside the Mosque. I am awed by the domed mosaic ceiling, geometric designed stained glass and massive crystal chandeliers above my head and silence is the only sound I hear although the mosque is filled with people.

Our group is split into two: some take the basic tour but a few Dutch, Japanese, Canadians, two Brits and I go the political route. Our guide is Mahmoud whose father was from Chad, his mother is Palestinian and he was born in Jerusalem.

Mahmoud tells us with a smile, "I was at the Ambassador Hotel for the public meeting the other day and was arrested and detained for eight hours. The Israelis will not allow Hamas and the PFLP to have public meetings at all. At that same time they claim this is a democracy, but how can that be if they do not allow political groups to meet and discuss the situation and search for solutions?

"When I was nineteen I was arrested for being a member of the PFLP/Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine and spent the next 17 years in jail. I was nervous when I got there and tortured for months. Then a strange thing happened they gave me a shower, clean clothes, put me in a clean room and spoke to me like a human being. Then the French Ambassador came in and told me he could get me out because my father had French citizenship. He asked me where did I want to go and I answered; Jerusalem! He said it was impossible, I was not allowed. I told him I would rather remain in prison if I could not go home and so I spent 17 years and that is where I learned there is no justification for anyone to take another life. Those who kill are not true Muslims.

"I was an eyewitness on October 8, 1990 when a group came to put a cornerstone where they want to rebuild the Temple. The Dome of The Rock is also what the Israelis call The Temple Mount, [the site where Abraham went to sacrifice his second born son, Issac]. They want to destroy our Holy site but no archeologist has been able to say exactly where The Temple had originally been and they have been digging for seventy years.

"On that day they came I heard women shouting and crying, they were fainting from the tear gas! People got angry and threw stones at the soldiers and guards. Then hundreds of guards came onto The Noble Sanctuary and started shooting and 17 people were killed and 1,500 injured. They claimed we were throwing stones at the Wailing Wall but a Rabbi who had been over there said it wasn't true at all."

We walked the narrow stone streets that wind around and into an alley and come to a site known as the "Little Western Wall", which is in the heart of the Muslim quarter. Construction has begun for a synagogue for women that will also prevent access in and out of the inner area, which is an apartment building where two or three Muslim families share one toilet.

Throughout the tour of the Muslim quarter Mahmoud points out the many cameras on the ancient stone walls and where the colonists/settlers have illegally confiscated Palestinian homes. "Within the Muslim and Christian quarters there are 70 locations where 1,000 Jews now live. We are under occupation and trying to have a better life and we have had some success. Before 1967 we had no universities and now we have twelve in the West Bank. I am a citizen of the Universe, but I live in Jerusalem."

We climb to the roof of Al Quds University in Jerusalem where short courses in Arabic are taught. The ancient stone buildings are marred by satellite dishes and lookout towers.

In the afternoon of the eighth day of our Reality Tour, sixty international ecumenical Christians were introduced to Sabeel's Contemporary Way of Cross. The Sabeel way, transforms the traditional Christian tradition of meditating upon the journey that Christ took after his condemnation as he carried his cross to where he was crucified with an updated meditation on empire and occupation.

In Jerusalem there are fourteen plaques along The Via Delorosa hanging on the walls of buildings depicting where Christ may have fallen three times, meets his mother, is stripped, nailed and dies.

The Contemporary Way suggests fourteen reflections beginning with 1948, The Nabka: The Catastrophe which followed the failure of the UN partition plan of '47 when the Irgun and Stern Gang [Zionist terrorist groups] depopulated 400 villages and forced 726,000 Palestinians to flee to Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt.

Station Two reflects on those refugees and the 460,000 more that fled during the War of 1967. Currently there are 675,670 registered refugees in the West Bank, 938,531 in Gaza and over two million in Arab countries who have never received compensation and have been denied the right to return as guaranteed in Articles 13 and 15 of The Universal Declaration of Human Rights* and in UN Resolution 194.

I was astounded to learn that in Natna, the Jerusalem refugee camp has The Wall butted up to the boy's high school. The 'playground' where 780 adolescents gather is in reality a cement ground about the square footage of a basket ball court. There is no view as it is walled in on all four sides by the high school, The Concrete Wall and two smaller cement walls.

A refugee informed our group that on a daily basis, "The Israeli Occupation Forces show up when the children gather in the morning or after classes. They throw percussion bombs or gas bombs into the school nearly every day! The world is sleeping; the world is hibernating and is allowing this misery to continue."

I wander around taking photos and am warmly greeted by a teenage boy who asks my name and where I am from. I cringe when I say America, for I am ashamed that over one billion USA dollars since 1948 has supported violence and helped build The Wall which has been deemed illegal by the International Court of Justice, for it does not follow the Green Line.

A few miles from the refugee camp, is the green grounds of the Jewish settlement of Pizgatzeev. I was sick at heart and in my gut when we drove less than a mile into the colony and in less than a miles drive; I counted three playgrounds and a swimming pool. I wonder how many USA tax dollars helped to build them, and why the same was not done for the refugees.

As our group is praying a gun shot issues from the Natna refugee camp, then another and another in rapid succession. I am told that the Israeli Defense Force is showering the refugees with gun fire and terror, which is a normal daily occurrence. I loose it completely then, and sob uncontrollably and feel like the Magdalena when she could not find her Lord. Then I think of Jesus, and how he cried over Jerusalem.

I am inflamed at what I have witnessed and I curse the empire that condones the violent terrorizing of innocent people just because they are Palestinian. I wonder when all the Israelis will wake up and see they too are victims of the occupation for many have lost their humanity.

I pray the Jewish state would indeed be a democracy, but if they want to be a theocracy, fine with me if they would only just follow Micah 6:8:
"What does the Lord require? Do justice, be merciful and walk humbly with your God."

When Israel became a state in 1948, it was contingent upon upholding the UN Universal Declaration of Human Rights. Article 13 affirms:
(1) Everyone has the right to freedom of movement and residence within the borders of each state.
(2) Everyone has the right to leave any country, including his own, and to return to his country

Imagine what a world it could be when every democracy honored the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and International Law.

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